It’s an additive that’s used as an emulsifier or preservative in foods such as gelatin desserts, jam, ice cream, and candy. The key? An ingredient called sodium citrate, which isn’t as scary as it sounds. Modernist Cuisine, a research group at the forefront of the molecular gastronomy movement, devised a four-ingredient recipe said to have an extraordinarily smooth texture without relying on a béchamel. When I heard that it was also the fastest ever, I knew I had to try it. So when I heard of an ultramodern recipe for the creamiest, cheesiest macaroni and cheese ever, I was curious. Finally, I combine the cheese sauce with cooked macaroni, transfer it to a buttered baking dish, top it with bread crumbs, and bake it until it’s bubbly. Sometimes I add eggs for an even richer, more custardy result. It’s this béchamel that allows me to then add flavorful aged cheeses, such as extra-sharp cheddar, which are prone to breaking down and separating into a greasy, lumpy mess when heated (more later on why some cheeses “break”). I ’ve always made mac and cheese the traditional way, and though the final product is comforting and delicious, getting there is a bit of a slog: I first cook flour in melted butter, whisk in milk, and simmer until the sauce, known as a béchamel, thickens.
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